bob dylan in guadalajara!

got the poster, didn't get the t-shirt

Bob Dylan and his band have just completed a sixteen-date tour of Brazil, Argentina, Chile, Costa Rica and Mexico. Couple of friends and I went to see him May 9, and I’m happy to report that at 70 he’s still da Man.

He played in the Auditorio Telmex, a newish and beautiful performance center in Zapopan in the northwest part of GDL. Interesting theatre, the lobby has several McDonald’s-like food counters but with good food and drink, including alcoholic beverages, all of which you are allowed to bring with you into the theatre. In case you need more, hawkers walked around with trays of replenishment, like a ballpark.

We had fair $80 USD seats on the aisle for a fast getaway, but too far away to really see the band, although the band’s shadows on the backdrop were pretty cool, and the sound system was great. The theatre was packed with young folks and aging hippie types, and by the end, many zoomed to the front of the hall to dance close to the stage. We old fogeys could dance in our seats and ultimately everyone was standing and dancing in place. Interestingly on the way out, the ushers/bouncers confiscated any cup someone was carrying, without inspecting it, probably to prevent drinking and driving; my friend’s CocaCola was thus sacrificed.

His concert was tight, started immediately at 9:00, with a long set one after the other with no break. The band played the best country-rock-blues I’ve heard in a long time, and Dylan’s voice didn’t sound that different from what I remember when I saw him in concert twice in Austin in the 1960′s. He has updated his classics to a country-rock-blues and even jazz sound and, because my friends and I still remember alot of the lyrics, we didn’t miss a thing. His newer stuff was very cool. All in all, the man keeps evolving and it’s a great thing to witness.

The “kids” were really into it, obviously fans prior to arriving at the theater, and well behaved. I’m delighted that the younger generation chooses to receive the baton and his music will carry on.

da Man

Set list:

  1. Leopard-Skin Pill-Box Hat
  2. It’s All Over Now, Baby Blue
  3. Things Have Changed
  4. Tangled Up In Blue
  5. Cry A While
  6. A Hard Rain’s A-Gonna Fall
  7. The Levee’s Gonna Break
  8. Trying To Get To Heaven
  9. High Water (For Charley Patton)
  10. Forgetful Heart
  11. Highway 61 Revisited
  12. Love Sick
  13. Thunder On The Mountain
  14. Ballad Of A Thin Man
  15. Like A Rolling Stone
  16. All Along The Watchtower

(P.S.: I missed the recent Paul McCartney and Santana concerts.
I better save up and pay attention to the schedule.)

Flamenco! Jazz! Cuban!

Flamenco!

February 18, 2012

Flamenco at Ninette's

I hadn’t realized how much Flamenco is alive and well in Mexico, not only in Spain. Flamenco is an early love of mine, having danced it in my youth, and witnessed many marvelous performances of famous troupes in Houston growing up. I recently got to see a small group – 4 young musicians and a dancer – perform in one of the quality restaurants here.
Watching and listening, I realized how Flamenco is a Spanish version of two of my other loves: jazz and blues. It is extempore yet with a readable score and choreography, using traditional songs and clapping rhythms and zappateados (the Spanish form footwork like advanced tap dancing). Today, flamenco combines some contemporary moves with traditional ones. I’m delighted to see it continues to evolve and thrive.
Flamenco is the quintessential expression of passion, that pulls you into sharing heartache and anguish with the performers, until you can relinquish the pain and move on. As John Lee Hooker advises, ‘the blues will heal you.’ And so it does, again tonight.

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Jazz!

February 25, 2012

The Richard Underhill Jazz Quartet

Saw an amazing jazz concert on a recent Saturday night in our newly remodeled Auditorio de la Rivera, which is about the size of a medium-sized high school auditorium. All the fundraising efforts certainly have paid off. The auditorium is lovely, has excellent acoustics, and with stadium seating, every seat has a full view of the stage.
This jazz concert – The Richard Underhill Jazz Quartet – was part of an annual season of musical performances sponsored by ScotiaBank and donors, with a great lineup of mostly classical music. This jazz quartet hails from Toronto, and toward the end were joined by an 8-piece orchestra of local musicians from Lakeside playing mostly strings. My cheeks were throbbing from smiling so much. I can’t believe my good fortune in finding such a treasure as Lakeside, so much talent and opportunity to pursue activities and interests here. At intermission, there was wine and beer and conversation, and time to wander through the Artisan gallery, permanently residing in the theater complex, of higher-end art and crafts.

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As if that wasn’t enough, the following Monday I went dancing with friends at El Bar Co in Ajijic that hosts a jam band every Monday, composed of members of local bands who play at several bars and restaurants regularly. They are really great rock bands and playing 60′s – 80′s music and so fun to dance to. To our great delight, the Richard Underhill Jazz Quartet showed up to play a few tunes. Our collective spirits were unbelievably high that night as the audience practically swooned over how wonderful it was to have such music so close by.  Music like that carries you on a cloud for at least a week.

 

And more jazz…!

Jazz at El Figon

And…no worries! A local jazz group is playing regularly at bars/restaurants around Ajijic. These places are tiny, just a few tables, making the connection with the musicians more intimate. These jazz musicians are a group of  young men from Monterrey, a big city by Lakeside standards, transplanting to Lakeside. Their music is mature and advanced types of jazz, yet they can mix in danceable lighter fare.

And you never know who is in the audience. When these jazz guys performed at El Figon recently, a white-haired ex-pat in the audience walked up “on stage” (there really isn’t one) and took out his trombone for some awesome New Orleans-style jazz. A musician friend who makes the rounds of several bands, playing base, harmonica and vocals, joined in and the “audience” just had to get up and dance. I like to think my dance-loving friends and I are inspiring people who ordinarily ‘don’t dance’ but may try it – and at least they smile big at us and sometimes they do get up and try it.

It’s like that here. Everything is small enough that experience is more immediate. Like the band? They just might show up at the next place you visit. Want to know more about them? A musician who has played with them joins your table and explains who these young jazzmen are.

 

 

Speaking of music I just can’t sit still for. …

Cuban!

My favorite music of all: Cuban!

Recently I saw a performance of a group called Zona Cuba from Guadalajara, an incredible Cuban band (think a young “Buena Vista Social Club“) along with 2 dancers performing, showing us advanced moves that were out of this world. (Unfortunately, I forgot to bring my camera).

I have to say that besides African, Cuban music is my favorite. They are closely aligned, having migrated via the slave trade from West Africa to Cuba and other parts of the Caribbean, and into Brazil too. There is something about the drums – djembes (African), bongos (Cuban), congas and claves (cow bells) (both) that carves a direct channel into my soul. As soon as the drums start up, I canNOT NOT move. This music evolved in the New World into Jazz, Rock, Blues, all the Latin American forms, and is still evolving today. The ultimate Afro-Latino diaspora fusion, as far as I’m concerned, of putting together diverse peoples who bloom, even under the most difficult circumstances, because of their music and dance and art.

 

Fernando Serna Villa

Danza con Clase

and private Latin dance lessons

The latest excitement for me is that I have started private 1:1 lessons at home with an awesome Latin dance teacher, Fernando Serna Villa. He is director of Danza con Clase, a small Latin dance company in GDL who performed March 8 at our Auditorio. I was happy to discover that a new friend and a group of Lakeside women here have been taking private classes with him in their homes for a couple of  years. They go up to GDL to a club to dance with him and a few men from his company.  Great way to practice Salsa, Cumbya, Cuban Son, Rumba, Tango, and other forms popular in Latin America, not just Mexico.  Dancing with an exceptional partner/teacher like Fernando feels like I’m flying. I never really learned to dance with a partner and I’m delighted to be learning it now.

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See more videos of his performances …

yes, I’m a dancing fool…

I danced all my youth and then did nothing for 30 years until I was nearly 50 and discovered African dance (yes, even in Maine), which quickly became a passion (obsession). I’m realizing how much a disservice I did to myself in giving up something I loved as much as dance, believing it was unimportant, that there was no time, that I couldn’t do it anymore, that I was too fat, that I was too old (which I even told myself in my 30′s). For those of you doing something like this to yourself, about any passion you once had and later abandoned:  beware! I sincerely hope it comes back to haunt you – before it’s too late!

Passion is why we’re alive.

I have re-discovered dance here in Mexico, both watching and doing it. I go with friends to a local bar/restaurant that has a wonderful rock/blues band every week and dance like a kid again. With a partner, without, who cares? Many single women here  just get up and dance. Many men are wonderful dancers with their partners (just not enough to go around). There’s another bar/restaurant here that offers line dancing (and lessons), and a duo doing Latin music – he on an electric piano, and she wriggling Latin dance moves. Another bar/restaurant has all sorts of 60′s & 70′s rock and blues to which some members of the jam band circulate.

Out Dancing!

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Here’s to you, Mama

My mother loved dance but grew up at a time and in a family culture that prohibited her learning and dancing as a child. After she married my father, she found her way to the world of Latin music of the 1950′s – Xavier Cugat and other 1950′s Cuban bands whose names I don’t know now. After she had me, she “made” me take dance lessons all my childhood, but to everyone’s surprise, I loved it, and was pretty good at it. Her insistence on my dancing was her gift to me that I appreciated too late. But I think I’m making up for it.

 

Is it too late to expect to dance in our sixties? There’s an African saying: “if  you can talk, you can sing; if you can walk, you can dance.” Here’s to you, Mama, from your little dancing fool – you created a monster! And I’m very grateful. Wish you could be here dancing with me. You’d love it!

recent narco violence in Lakeside

Updated May 19, 2012

 

Over 500 Lakeside residents participated in peace march May 13

Authorities face public on lakeside security issues May 16

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Many of you have read/seen/heard news reports of the recent violent events in the Lake Chapala region. News of this has gone global.

See these articles about in recent events in the English-language newspaper Guadalajara Reporter:

Lakeside kidnap victims among dead in May 9 massacre

Authorities face public on Lakeside security issues

Body parts found in Riberas del Pilar as cops arrest six over kidnappings linked to Chapala massacre
[Also see the Crime and Fear/CSI Citizen Safety Initiative links in the sidebar on the right under Categories about Lake Chapala's citizen group - CSI Citizen Safety Initiative trying to create a system of safety and effective police intervention, as posted here in December 2011.]

See this recent interview on DemocracyNow with Mexican poet Javier Sicilia who lost his son to narco violence last year and started the peace movement known (in English) as Movement for Peace with Justice and Dignity. He is currently touring the U.S. to inform and engage people with an awareness of the role of the U.S. in the narco wars of the U.S./Mexico.

Part 2: http://youtu.be/qHMfw60BT5c (better)
Part 1: http://youtu.be/b_Bw3x12LUU

 

I share his views. To resolve the horrible terrorism of narco violence, it doesn’t make sense to keep up a so-called “war on drugs” (workin’ for us, is it?)  which attempts to address only the end-game. We have to address the origins of drug use/abuse, why so many people, especially in the “comfortable”  U.S. have the need to take drugs (only a painful, empty society generates the need to anesthetize our experience of it). We have to acknowledge that someone stands to gain financially from keeping this “war” going – who might that be? We have to face the fact non-emotionally that legalizing and controlling all drugs,not just alcohol and cigarettes, eliminates the financial incentive for narco violence since it eliminates the market. Drug-taking and addiction are public health issues, not moral issues, and obviously, not (just) a crime and security issue. We have to acknowledge that such a system of legalized-but-controlled recreational and addictive drugs won’t be perfect, that criminals will find other ways of making money and exploiting and destroying innocent people and communities. And we have to come to the realization that our world is filled with terrorism, not just from al-Qaeda, but in all its forms including narco cartels, human trafficking and slavery, organized global pedophilia, the marketing of human organs, an gawd knows what else is out there.

 

And finally, about me personally, I know some of you are worried:

I am fine, and I don’t even feel afraid. Many expats here are terrified and planning to move back NOB. Not me. I will move when I reach some sort of tipping point. I moved from Texas to Maine when I experienced 3 episodes of personal violence (none of them serious, but they could have been) in the last year I lived in Texas. Whether this would be my tipping point here – actually experiencing violence – I have no idea. I choose not to live in fear. I also choose not to take unnecessary risks, not to go out at night alone, to support my favorite restaurants and bars who are changing to earlier evening hours for now so that staff and customers can go home while it’s still light (before 8:30 pm now).

I’m not afraid, but I am sad and grieving for the people of Mexico. They are survivors, and I like to think that the ex-pats here are too. Mexico has survived its history of violent conquest and thrives anyway, and I have faith that it will continue to so so.


 

May 13, 2012

Dear Community Members,

To our knowledge, this is truly the most devastating and difficult time our beautiful Village has ever experienced. We are all in shock and frankly, terrified at the prospects of what my lie ahead. Everyday more bad news, more terroristic acts.

This email is to let you know, your CSI Chapala Team has not stopped working in your behalf; for the Nationals and Foreigners alike.

Here is what we have been doing in addition to keeping the Anonymous Hotline active. As a sidebar to that, now would be the perfect time to use this number 01-800- Remember, when this number is dialed, it goes straight to operators in Canada and they have no way of identifying who is calling. You receive a number only, NO names. The number you are given is so you can call and check on your progress of your lead.

Your report is typed up in English and Spanish and immediately sent directly to the cell phone of our Police Captain. You can help your Mexican neighbor or gardener or maid or pool man make that call. You can dial the number and you can help them deliver the information if they are fearful. Someone must know something that will assist our police department. Please ask and encourage your Mexican friends to participate in the invaluable program.

Next week, CSI in conjunction with our police department, will be implementing a new ‘emergency cell phone system’. This system in in addition to the 800 Anonymous Hotline number listed above. This additional safety measure will work this way: A ‘receive calls only’ cell phone number will be imprinted on refrigerator magnets and stickers for the back of your home or cell phone. Each household will be receiving, delivered by the police department personnel, several circular badges (as described above), along with the neighborhood watch window stickers.

CSI Chapala will be purchasing for our police department, nine ‘receive only cell phones’ which will be taken out on by the officers on duty who will be patrolling the Ajijic and Chapala areas. Each patrol will have their own ‘receive calls only cell phone’. It is that sticker, with that particular phone number that you will be receiving. In other words, Ajijic Central will have a different cell phone number on their sticker than someone in Rivera Alta who will have a different cell phone number than someone in Central Chapala area or Vista del Lago, etc., so that should you have an emergency, the police officers on duty in your area can get to your home immediately.

Remember, it is your responsibility to write next to your phone and maybe even attach it to the magnet, what to say, in Spanish.

Ayuda me, Ayuda me. Mi nombre es ______________, mi direction es __________ en Ajijic or Villa Nova or whatever; mi telephono es ______________. Pro favor ayuda me arrita mismo. (Help me, help me. My name is _________. My address is ________en (this area). My phone number is ___________. Please help me right now.)

Also we are now working hand-in-hand with our police department with the Guardian Angels to add more ‘boots on the ground’ in our neighborhood. We are looking for volunteers. The course is 16 of training. You can join at any time by emailing CSI Chapala.

Additionally, we have met with our Mayor, Jesus Cabrera, our Police Captain, Renold Contreras, the State of Jalisco Police of Chief, , the head of Jalisco Tourism, Miguel Cervantes, and (Aurora and Veronica, please help me with the Spanish above and the names and titles of who we have met with.

We have asked for Army presence immediately, as well as the State and Federal Police to assist our local police. We have also asked for a curfew. These, as many of you may recall, were part of our six solutions back in Dec 2011. We have never stopped asking for them, but now we are seeing them being put into action. Please follow the new rules being implemented. After dark, please stay home.

We are also asking all restaurants to participate in ‘early bird specials’ until this very troubled time is over, so that they may stay in business and you may still have a social life. If restaurants were to starting their ‘early bird dinner menus at 3pm with their music (if they have music) playing from 4-8pm and then the restaurant closes, so you and their staff can safely be home before 9pm.

Just minutes ago CSI Chapala received a call from Capitan Contreras who is trying to organize a PEACE MARCH TODAY (Sunday, May 13th). He asks that we all meet in front of the Pemex station at the entrance of Chapala (by the Monday Open Air Market). We will walk in white, with candles, in silence to the fountain by the church. PLEASE try to be there.

We are all in this together and as your volunteer team, your CSI Chapala is doing all we can. As you know, we are not the police, not a reporting or recording entity; we are simply a liaison between you and the police to assist with safety issues by offering ideas and programs.

Thank you and please try to be at the PEACE MARCH this evening at 8pm starting in Chapala.

Your CSI Chapala Team

 


May 16, 2012
Dear Community Members,

Today at the La Floresta Auditorium our local police chief, Capitan Contreras, and Jalisco State Police Chief, Commander Marquez, set the record straight. The information was so calming; we asked if they would speak to the community. They were so please to have the opportunity.

Therefore CSI Chapala has scheduled a “TOWN HALL MEETING” to be held at the Ajijic Plaza, Wednesday, May 16th at 6pm. PLEASE make every effort to attend this very important, information-packed meeting.

What many members of the community and CSI learned today was calming and it will be well worth your time to attend this important meeting. The Commander and Capitan will speak, using microphones and loud speakers. Additionally, they will entertain questions not answered in their speeches for about one half hour.

By the time you leave this very important meeting you will have learned:

  • how many deaths have there been in our community;
  • about the new bodies discovered in Riberas;
  • about the flyers/banners you may have heard about calling for more random innocents’ deaths;
  • about the “safety houses” raided;
  • about those arrested and how the police (both State and Local) and the Army are handling the security of our community.

CSI will also have available for you refrigerator magnets and phone stickers with the cell phone police numbers of the officers working your neighborhoods, should you need immediate help. We will also have Neighborhood Watch window stickers to show neighborhood solidarity.

PLEASE get this information out to your email lists – as well as your Mexican neighbors and friends. This information is in Spanish on our Facebook Pages: CSI Chapala AND ISC Chapala.

We need your attendance. These are the most important and tragic events our Chapala community has had to deal with in its recent history. Please support CSI’s efforts to bring you the latest information and stop the rumors.

Thank you,

CSI Chapala

 


United States Consulate General Guadalajara

PLEASE CIRCULATE THIS IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT TO

AS MANY AMERICAN CITIZENS AS POSSIBLE
Message for U.S. Citizens:

Safety Practices & Situational Awareness

Date: May 18, 2012

BEGIN TEXT.

The following basic security tips are being repeated as a reminder:Situational Awareness: Always be on the look-out for any suspicious or violent activity occurring near your home, your vehicle, and your family. If any suspicious or violent activity is observed, please move away from the threat and report specific information immediately to local police.
Take cover and/or evasive action- if you hear or see weapons, grenades, explosions, etc., at anytime, immediately get down on the ground behind solid cover or drive away quickly if you are in your vehicle. Do not/not attempt moving closer to the action to see what is happening. Once you can safely move away from the incident, proceed as quickly as possible with evasive action to remove yourself from the scene.
Drive Defensively- In addition to the threat from organized criminals, road rage can also lead to a deadly incident. Remember to drive defensively and avoid provoking other drivers regardless of any erratic driving near your vehicle. Keep your distance and be a courteous driver to avoid any potential for conflict.

Driving- Use the cuotas and avoid intercity driving after dark. Road signage is often inadequate. Uncontrolled intersections abound and motorists fail to yield even where traffic controls are in place. Thus, drivers should drive defensively (look for and expect cross traffic). Around town, always drive with the windows rolled up and doors locked, and when stopped in traffic, leave room to maneuver.
When Parking- Avoid leaving your vehicle on the street. Park inside a residential compound, in a parking lot with an attendant, or within continuous view of the location of your visit. If this is not possible, leave your car at home and take a taxi. When parking within a shopping facility lot, park as close as possible to the store entrance, and away from dumpsters, bushes or large vehicles. Lock the doors, close the windows and conceal boxes, shopping bags and personal items in the trunk or out of sight.

Be Unpredictable- vary your times and routes of travel to and from work, daily/weekly errands (i.e. grocery shopping), and regularly scheduled social/personal events.
Keep a Low Profile- Do not wear valuable jewelry, watches (i.e. Rolex), gold, silver, diamonds, etc. in public. Do not carry expensive electronic items in public such as I-pods, laptop computers, etc. When transport of a laptop computer is deemed absolutely necessary, lock the laptop computer in the trunk of your vehicle between points of travel and do not leave the laptop computer (or any other valuable items) unattended in any vehicle at anytime.
IF YOU ARE A VICTIM: Don’t resist an armed criminal demanding your valuables. Remain calm and avoid any fast, furtive movements. Statistics show that most attempts to resist an armed robber result in serious bodily injury and/or death of the victim. Be a good witness. Record a suspect’s description, license plate number, vehicle info, etc.

Please continue to monitor the regularly updated State Department travel warnings and information for Mexico using the following link: http://travel.state.gov

 The U.S. Consulate General in Guadalajara is located at 175 Progreso Street, Col. Americana, Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico. The U.S. Consulate General in Guadalajara’s telephone number is 011 52 33 3268 2100; the fax number is 011 52 33 3825 1951. For after-hours emergencies, please call 011 52 33 3268 2145. The U.S. Consular Agency in Puerto Vallarta is located at Paseo de los Cocoteros #85; Sur Paradise Plaza, Interior Local L-7, Nuevo Vallarta, Nayarit, C.P. 63732. The U.S. Consular Agency in Puerto Vallarta’s telephone numbers are 011 52 322 222 0069 & 011 52 322 223 3301; the fax number is 011 52 322 223 0074. For after-hours emergencies, please call 011 52 33 3268 2145.

END OF TEXT. U.S. Consulate General Guadalajara

http://guadalajara.usconsulate.gov/

The Consulate office hours are Monday through Friday from 08:00 a.m. to 04:30 p.m. (except for Mexican and U.S. holidays).

 


May 19, 2012

Sorry for the delay in getting out this summary of our Town Hall Safety Meeting
at the Ajijic Plaza. According to the ‘head counters’ there were approximately 1000

in attendance, with about 75% being Mexican. The meeting was opened by Linda Fossi,

member of CSI, with translation provided by Vivianne Michel, also of CSI. Captain Contreras, Chief of Police for the Chapala Municipality, was present and handled the bulk of the meeting explaining he was there to validate information, dispel rumors, and answer questions from the crowd.

Captain Contreras confirmed the information about 18 bodies being found near Ixtlahuacan, none of which were connected to drug trafficking. Further,

he confirmed another 5 bodies/heads/body parts, many frozen, were found at a home in Riberas del Pilar. The only possible nexus to drugs was that the
aunt or uncle of one of the bodies found had rented out the home in Riberas where these latest bodies were found.

He also confirmed that a foreigner had been abducted while walking his dogs; one dog was killed and the man and another woman being held, were Released after being held overnight. This man and his family have since gone into hiding and will be leaving the area.

 

The third incident he addressed consisted of a foreign couple abducted from Chapala Haciendas along with three Mexicans; when brought to a
hostage-holding house, the person in charge released the couple stating “we don’t want anything to do with foreigners.”

He confirmed that two safe houses were raided in San Nicolas (on the way to Vista del Lago) where they have custody 3 people and secured a cache of large arms, hand guns, explosives, fake police garb and various other items used by police forces. These people are being held and questioned regarding the latest incidents.

There was also a raid in a gated community of Rancho del Oro, (several days ago now, and the Captain confirmed that, while there were no suspects
present, another cache of weapons, bullet-proof vests and grenades, etc., were seized there.

The Captain also said on the Monday meeting (attended by CSI and some others), that there were NO signs, or flyers or banners that stated the Narcos will going to kidnap and kill Mexican citizens. Thosewere rumors.

Numerous questions were asked by the audience, many by the Mexicans present. However, their questions were more police bashing than actual
questions and from time to time the crowd yelled “we want answers!” And “bring in the military!, you’re over your head!”, etc. To the Captain’s credit,
he maintained his composure and reaffirmed the reason for being at the meeting: to provide answers and to seek the everyone’s support in finding and convicting the criminals.

 

I’m summarizing below what the Captain requested of the crowd:

Call the Anonymous Tip Hotline (01-800-839-1416), (since the meeting, SIX TIPS HAVE BEEN CALLED IN, so the message worked). The police department in Chapala (765-4444 of 066), or the cell numbers written on magnets distributed at the end of the meeting. These cell phones have been issued to the police department by CSI CHAPALA as part of their Mission Statement and Vision to offer programs for the safety our community. Each of these cell phones will be issued to the officer-on-duty, on each shift, for each of 10 districts that make up the Ribera in “Chapala Municipality”: 3 cell phones covering Ajijic.

Ajijic (from La Floresta to Las Salvia, upper and lower): 331-149-3980:

West Ajijic (from Villa Nova to the start of Jocotepec Municipality): 333-722-5566:

Riberas, (from San Antonio (this would include along the Libramiento to the bounders of the Chapala Municipality): 333-722-3720:

 

There are also 3 cell phones covering Chapala:
Chapala Centro (all of Main Street to the Lake to La Cristina Park): 333-722-6099:
Chapala Guadalupe District (along and up the Mt Side up to the Bus Station): 333-722-3486:

Chapala San Miguel District (along and up the Mt Side from the Bus Station to the start of Chapala Haciendas/Brisas): 333-722-3461.

 

The other four districts are: Chapala Haciendas/Brisas de Chapala: 331-767-4210.

San Nicholas/Santa Cruz: 331-789-5033.

Vista del Lago, 331-438-6231. And

Atotonilquillo: 331-465-0768.

 

These phones are “receive only” cell phones and are manned 24/7 by the police officer assigned to each district. By contacting the number for
your district either when you observe something suspicious RIGHT THAT MINUTE, or find yourself in danger, CALL YOUR OFFICE-ON-DUTIES CELL PHONE.

The turnaround time will be much faster, since the officer is located within your district and can promptly respond. Remember, speak in Spanish:

 

Ayudame, Ayudame. Mi nombre es ______________, mi dirección es __________

en Ajijic or Villa Nova or wherever; mi teléfono es ______________.

Por favor ayuda me ahorita mismo. (Help me, help me. My name is _________.

My address is ________en (this area). My phone number is ___________. Please help me right now.)

 

For SECRET TIPS, not your local emergencies, call the CSI Chapala ANONYMOUS HOTLINE NUMBER: 01-800-839-1416.

 

The Captain, answering other questions on the Monday gathering at the La Floresta Auditorium, and later after the formal meeting confirmed: 1) There were NO banners, flyers, or any other communications about the Narcos kidnapping others. That was a rumor. 2) The Government did NOT start any curfew. That was a rumor.

He asked us to please go about our business as usual but avoid desolate areas, e.g., the mountain trails are not safe right now. To stay home achieves what these criminals want: to have us live in fear.

 

Report any incident having to do with your car being stopped by a police patrol for the purposes of questioning you and searching your car.
While some of these may be legitimate, there may also be some who are criminals posing as police officers (one person in the crowd described such
an incident). The Captain asked that people call in to his office in Chapala and report the incident and the number on the police truck which is prominently displayed on the side. He has the schedule of which truck is supposed to be out on patrol and which officers are in that car.
This will help him establish if there are people out there posing as officers and also determine that, if it was a legitimate police Check point, that the search was conducted legally and according to approved police procedure.


Do not allow rumors to become your reality. If your neighbor, friend, housekeeper, gardener, etc. tells you they saw or heard something suspicious, urge them to call the ANONYMOUS HOTLINE with the information, it is 100% anonymous with calls going directly to Canada with bi-lingual operators who take the report. It is illegal in Canada to see the phone number that has dialed the call, so there’s no way they can trace the caller. The Captain indicated that, if they don’t get the information, their hands are tied. Also, for current information, you can check information on the police website www.chapala.gov.mx; this website is updated regularly and should help put to rest the rumors that seem to be flying around.

The Captain realizes the Mexican community, and perhaps many within the foreign community don’t trust the police but he’s committed to follow up
on every single lead or report. Something to remember, the police department has no jurisdiction over the Transito, ticket writing officers. They are run by the State Government, not the local government.

When asked about seeking additional support from the military, he indicated that there have been a couple of military patrols deployed to Lakeside but it’s best to keep their presence to a minimum because an all-out war could ensue between the Narcos and the military as it has in other states.

This is the information we were able to get out of the meeting. This is information gathered by many.

 

 

 

 

retirement

Ah, retirement: how do I love thee? let me count the ways…

My time is my own

I can try anything I want, new or old, with or without experience, and not feel like a fool

I can afford to do everything I want (I’m reasonable) – at least in Mexico

As Mexicans say, “I’m not rich, but I’m happy”

I get tired frequently – and so, I take a nap! No wait, I’ve always done that – it’s just that here, it’s accepted, institutionalized, and called a siesta!

I’m as healthy as I want to be – I’m in charge of it, after all

I sometimes get bored with so much pleasure and relaxation… NOT!

My gardens and the lake and the mountain and sunshine and flowering trees always bring me back to the center

Learning – and actually living with – another language changes one’s brain – for the better

There are downsides – I just can’t remember what they are right now

Ok, to be honest, I get tired of SYSTEM FAILURES: mail, telephone, quirky Mexican government processes, power failures; but when there is power, the internet is surprisingly stable, so I’m happy

I get lonely at times  – and always have. I have learned to face it, explore it, learn from it, not run away from it to some delusional fix “out there”, but at times, if it’s bad enough,  I call a friend! Or make a new friend! Or just scratch Krypto’s ears and watch him make goofy pleasure faces.

I delight in … people, friends, neighbors, strangers, shopkeepers, wait staff, my dog, my gardens, my house, restaurants, markets, my hammock, music, dance, contemplation, art, movies, the climate, shopping, travel, Spanish – as never before

I anguish over what’s happened to America and I’m glad I’m not there. There IS another way to live. I hope we/they find it, before it’s too late.

 

 

 

 

 

overheard

I don’t eat out in restaurants alone as often as when I first arrived, but when do I often enjoy the overheard conversations of people at the next table almost as much as my meal. Especially Lakeside where many of us oldsters are hard of hearing and tend to speak loud enough to be overheard. Recently while lunching at La Nueva Posada, a Colonial style hotel and restaurant on the lake in Ajijic, I overheard what I presumed was a realtor advising and teaching an elder lady client about Ajijic over lunch. What alerted my attention at first was her speaking a bit too loudly about having to pay so much in federal taxes this year. I’m paying around one third of the figure she announced, so I figure she must be at least 3 times richer than me (although I probably pay more in taxes). I was also a bit concerned that she talked so loud about the money. The rest of their conversation was about what I’m beginning to think of as the “Be Afraid” rap.

He proceeded to chat with her about the infamous wife-murderer who had been hiding out here at Lakeside, somewhat new in town when he married a Mexican woman with whom he had a child. They opened a nice gringo-oriented cafe and business was good. Then the authorities found him and he’s in prison. Moral: be very careful of … What? Where you eat breakfast? Who you marry here? As coincidences often happen here, I had just heard this same story from a friend that morning – in the very cafe formerly owned by the bad guy. His wife is doing an excellent job keeping it all going and it’s a very popular spot. People will always enjoy juicy stories, even when they’re true!

There have been many conversations recently about how much more crime there is here at Lakeside now. Old-timers who have been here 8-10 years or more remember how there didn’t used to be home invasions, murders, narco crimes of kidnapping, extortion, dumping multiple bodies in the street, Juarez-style.

Example fortress home

I overhear people scaring one another all the time now, while sitting at a fine restaurant in paradise, or in the local web boards – our “town criers” – where people now write about getting trained attack dogs, installing more video surveillance, concertina wire, the works…(see some ideas on how to fortify your house, and more fortress homes and more).

People are afraid, and seem bent on escalating their fears, by repeating over and over how bad things are getting so that…what? They might forget otherwise? There do seem to be more crimes reported now, but there also seems to be more of a police presence, they seem to respond faster when called about a crime in, or recently in, progress, and it seems that more bad guys are getting caught. Can’t have one without the other. But no matter, whatever happens or seems to happen (many wild rumors on the web board), repeated enough, it takes on a whole new scale.

The world is more violent, here and everywhere.

People don’t like to hear that. They are adamant that it’s not supposed to happen here, in paradise, and naturally, they are angry that it’s happening here. They’re not only scared, they feel cheated, I imagine especially so if they have invested in a dream house here and feel trapped. They feel especially threatened, because as elders, they’re weaker and more vulnerable. And I cannot discount the probability that for many, an (at least unconscious) xenophobia inflames whatever threat they perceive.

No, we cannot be head-in-the-sand complacent about the threat of violence, we must take precautions and be vigilant – but when in human history has that not been the case? We in the North have been lulled into a false sense of security, that life is clean and neat and kind. But truly, when in human history has that actually been the case?

As long as America as a culture and as a political system remains enthralled with violence, institutionalizes perennial war, trains its child warriors with violent video games, entertains its masses with violent movies and TV, kowtows to the NRA no matter how absurd their “god-given right” to arm, ships U.S. guns to Mexico, is too squeamish to legalize illicit drugs under a faux sense of morality, we will continue to manufacture violence in our culture and export it abroad.

Recently, 40,000 Norwegians demonstrated peacefully in protest against the violence proselytized by their psychotic mass murderer now on trial. Can you imagine such an anti-violence protest mounted in the States?

No, I have experienced nothing yet to make me so fearful and paranoid here in Lake Chapala and hope nothing happens to change that, of course. I remember such fear and paranoia during the anti-Viet Nam protests in the 1960′s, of the Nixon administration, of the Cheny/Dubbya administration…with obvious good reason. I know how insidious paranoia can be, how fearful people will project their fear and hatred, and how quickly it can escalate out of control. We are living beyond the tipping point of massive change in how the world functions, and fails to function, and too many people are oblivious of what’s happening, or have the wrong answers, or don’t know what questions to even ask.

I write this in my flower-filled garden as the afternoon wanes, listening to the chatter, laughter, songs, and squeals of the children of my Mexican neighbors as they enjoy yet another large family party, their gates wide open.

May we continue to live in interesting times.

Criminals frequently seen in my neighborhood

 

CSI Chapala update

CSI Chapala Update

April 4, 2012

Dear Community Members:

Your Community Safety Initiative Team (CSI Chapala) is pleased to make the following announcements:

  1. We have received countless notifications from you, the community, stating you and your neighbors have begun taking action with Vecinos en Alerta/ Neighborhood Watch. Congratulations. Remember, your window sticker (letting the undesirables know you and your block are now watching out for each other), are available at: Arellano Properties, (off of the Libramiento just past the Pemex and OXXO by the small Bancomer office); or the Ajijic or Chapala Police Stations.
  2. Hector Espana, one of our Founding Committee Members, and the owner of Manix Restaurant, has returned to help govern your board. We are honored to have him back on the CSI Chapala Team.
  3. Larry Fauntleroy, a trained Guardian Angel formerly from Poughkeepsie, New York, and now a resident of Ajijic, has agreed to work alongside Hector Espana in bringing Ajijic their own Chapter of The Guardian Angels.
  4. Larry was able to enlist the services of a New York Captain of the Guardian Angels, Benjamin Cruz Cortez. Ben was originally from Acapulco and now resides with his family in the Mid-Hudson area of New York. Benjamin joined the Ajijic Guardian Angel Recruiting Team for five days and not only helped them with recruitment but also with the standards necessary to become a certified Guardian Angel.
  5. We are also pleased to inform you, the Guardian Angels team has recruited over 44 volunteers who will start their 10 week training courses beginning April 12th. If you are interested in becoming a volunteer Guardian Angel (any man or woman from 18-80 is welcome), please contact: Hector at: 331-xxx-xxxx; or Rafael at: 333-xxx-xxxx or Larry at 331-xxx-xxxx.

 

Although CSI Chapala has been instrumental in launching this chapter of the Guardian Angels, we are not their governing body. The Ajijic Chapter of the Guardian Angels, an internationally known and accepted organization with its own rules and regulation, will become its own governing body, separate from your CSI Chapala team, following their own established rules and standards.

Additionally, your CSI Chapala team would like to inform you, your security fund balance is $ 79,844.68 pesos and your reward fund balance is $ 58,777.45 pesos.

Some of the Security Donations, in the amount of $19,534.40 pesos, were used to purchase an entirely new phone system for our Chapala Police Station so that they might better serve our emergency needs. They now have three phone lines: 765-xxxxand 765-xxxxas well as the private line for our Capitan.

Our Police Station had a very inadequate and dated phone system, causing many calls to be ‘dropped’ or not even ring through.

Subsequently, CSI Chapala approved the purchase and installation of a new phone system which is now operational. As a condition to purchase this new system, our Capitan guaranteed that his operators would learn basic English communication skills to better serve the ex-pat community.

Also we would like to inform you that over $34,000 pesos were collected, on a volunteer basis, through those participating while paying their property taxes. We send out a big thank you to those of you who made these donations. This money will be used solely for additional security purposes.

We hope you will consider learning more about the Guardian Angels by either stopping by Manix Restaurant on April 12th between 6-6:30 or simply calling one of the numbers listed above. This is a ‘tried and true’ system of community members working as the “heart and hands” for all residents.

The Ajijic Guardian Angels, coupled with hundreds of windows boasting Vecinos Vigilandos/Neighborhood Watch and our Anonymous Hotline

01-800-xxx-xxxx

should add peace-of-mind to our community again.

 

Finally, we would like you to know we are seeking TWO additional Board Members. This is an active board. We are especially interested in persons who know about fund-raising or someone with skills in record keeping. Currently we meet once a week for about 2 hours, but soon that will go to twice a month. If you are interested, PLEASE contact us at: csichapala@xxxxxxx.xxx

As always, we would appreciate that you forward this email to your friends.

Thank you,

CSI Chapala Team

 

it’s home

It’s been a while! My blog got hacked, I lost some posts and lost heart to replace them or to keep this blog going, then realized I needed a break. But here I am again, hopefully re-inspired. Thanks for hanging in there!

I’ve made it through my first 9 months of living in Mexico and yes, it’s home. Who knows what the future will bring, but for now, I’ve really grown into the place, I fit here, and can’t imagine returning to the U.S. I keep falling in love with Mexico all over again. As I’ve heard from many expats here, even those who have lived in other countries long-term, something happens in Mexico like nowhere else. Once you’ve adapted, it’s really hard to leave it, even for short-term trips back “home.”

In the last few weeks I’ve entered the post-honeymoon phase where I believe I see Mexico for what it is, and it keeps enchanting me. It still feels like an extended vacation, but it’s simply real life, lived day to day. I continue to be surprised by all the good Mexico offers. People are warm and friendly, who welcome the foreigners in their midst, and are very patient with our halting Spanish. It’s a great place to practice patience, to slow down, and realize that those heated up expectations to have things done “my way” that we from el Norte are so good at, is not the only way. We’ve been running so fast we’ve forgotten how to “take our time” – literally: to remember that it is our time and there’s not much of it in any given life.


I almost bought a house. I always look online, just to see what the market is doing, and I so enjoy “moving in” and decorating a house, even if only in imagination. Housing prices have been coming down here. The house I looked at has come down from $149K to $109K and the sellers had already accepted an offer of $90K with seller financing, although that sale didn’t go through in the end. It was very tempting but I decided against trying to purchase it. Or to buy at all. I’m very happy in my rental and there are always moments of intense joy to have found such a wonderful house and neighborhood. It’s perfect for me, in a great location, very affordable, and I continue to make it mine, feeling that it is mine.

I keep tweaking the gardens, adding more plants and enlarging beds, and have just painted the living room and an accent wall in my bedroom, permitted in rentals here (depending upon the landlord). This house let’s me flex my decorating muscles, and I’ve bought some wonderful items that replace some of what I had to leave behind, in my 2 major downsizings prior to moving here. But I’m cautious not to overbuy so I won’t have to face another major downsizing some day. It really helps to rent a furnished house, so, off the top, there’s no furniture to drag around with you if/when you do move. I can still move everything in one packed RAV 4.


When ex-pats purchase a home here, they naturally fill it up with wonderful ethnic furnishings, artwork, housewares, whole truckloads of stuff. When they choose to sell – or are forced to sell – they hold massive “bazaars” (garage sales) and there are plenty of new buyers and renters to buy it. Many bazaars here are permanent weekend fixtures. It’s essentially a grand recycling of households and possessions. Everyone here advises to rent for 6 months to a year before purchasing a house. But there are still newbies who are swept up in their mad love affair with Mexico to which we are all susceptible. They buy their house immediately, sometimes sight unseen (online), before they even get here. It’s sticker-shock in reverse: things are so cheap here compared to el Norte it’s almost impossible to resist.
We’ve come from the land of mostly sterile mass-produced goods and we filled our homes with it. Little wonder that we go a little crazy here buying such wonderful hand-made, quirky, unique items. We live with art close to our hearts here, day-to-day practical tools and implements
and just simply items of beauty to admire.

There are always those who complain about the way Mexicans do things – build or repair houses, for example. But if you take the time to look, there is genius in the way Mexicans create solutions to everyday problems, whether in constructing a house or painting a picture. My house is gradually becoming a gallery, and I’m delighted to live in a gallery.
I’m committing to the realization that I really DON’T NEED to buy another dream house. Which in my case (back in the states, thanks to the Great Recession) turned into a bad dream of disappointment and loss, even though I was still afloat and not underwater as so many people are.


So I’m still here, happy, and can’t wait to see what’s next.

CSI Neighborhood Watch Alert

March 13, 2012
Dear Community Members,

Your CSI Chapala Team is proud to announce the ‘re-launch’of Vecinos en Alerta/Neighborhood Watch.

As you know, your neighbors can become your lifetime, as they are nearest you should anything unforeseen happen in your home. The Neighborhood Watch/Vecinos en Alerta Program puts the old adage “you are your brother’s keeper” into action. By participating in this program, you are simply asking your neighbors to help you out should you find yourself or your home in danger. When we give ourselves and our neighbors the chance to become the extra eyes and ears of our law enforcement, we exponentially increase our chances of overcoming danger.

The Municipality of Chapala has already established a Vecinos en Alerta (Neighborhood Watch) program and CSI Chapala is re-launching the program through more active participation with the community.

Attached please find, in both English and Spanish, your Neighborhood Watch/Vecinos en Alerta and My House/Mi Casa flyer as well as the“Recommendations for Security and Safety for Your Family” (also in English and Spanish).

We highly recommend you print copies of each of these forms and start your own NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH/VECINOAS EN ALERTA. We will provide as many ‘window stickers’showing your neighborhood is participating in VEA/NW.

Additionally, as our Mexican neighbors may not have printers at the ready, we will print these forms in Spanish and distribute them block by block.

We hope you and your neighbors will take action. You can pick up your window stickers at: the Chapala Police Department, Arellano Properties located on the Libramiento just past OXXO and Pemex, and at the front desk of Banco Actinver.

PLEASE pass this information on to your mailing list.

Thank you,

CSI Chapala

Note: in the interest of protecting this information from spurious use, the phone numbers have been masked.

March 13, 2012

VECINOS EN ALERT (VEA)—VECINOS VIGILANDO

NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH—-NEIGHBORHOOD ALERT

Recommendations for Security and Safety for your family

Sponsors: Municipal Police, Prevencion del delito, Gobierno Municipal de Chapala, CSI Chapala

  • It is up to all citizens to participate in the prevention of crime, by assisting the authorities-‘prevention’ is the best method to decrease crime in your neighborhood increase communication with your neighbors and the authorities

HOW TO START

  • All members of the community need to work together in an organized way

  • Suggest ideas to improve communications, involve all your neighbors, assign an area co-ordinator or co-leader, hold meetings to exchange security, safety and crime prevention ideas

  • Seek help from the local authorities

  • It is important to report all crimes to the Police and the MP office. Both reports are essential for any arrests and /or convictions to be valid.

  • Provide all the necessary information such as what, where, who, description of culprit and/or vehicles

It is possible to report information on a serious crime investigation in a confidential, anonymous manner…24/7, free call from any phone, English and Spanish attendants located in Canada (not for emergencies). This number is only to ANONYMOUSLY report a crime. Crime Stoppers International/ Anonymous Hotline/Testigos Anonimos

01-800-***-****

In case of an emergency, contact the local authorities (765-****) and clearly give this message, in Spanish:

English: Help! Help! (say it twice), Say your name, Say your address, subdivision and town.

Spanish: Ayuda! Ayuda! , John Doe , 222 Lazaro Cardenas, Upper La Floresta, Ajijic

 

EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBERS:

  • Policia Chapala 765-****>

  • Transito 765-****

  • Proteccion Civil 766-****

  • Cruz Rojas 765-****

  • Telefono de Emergencias 066

  • Know the contact information for your neighbor…your Guardhouse…and the emergency procedures in your community.

 

 

crime, fear, and action

Note: see update May 2012

Crime in Mexico is nothing new. There’s the evil border crime in places like Juarez where narco turf wars leave corpses piled up on street corners.

Sadly, our own U.S. government [DEA/Justice Dept/ATF] has been providing guns and laundering cartel money in an effort to find out more about and pursue the cartel leadership, with unfortunate consequences, and certainly loss of credibility and respect.

It has become clear that cartel-induced crime also occurs beyond the borderland, in interior cities like Monterrey, and Guadalajara (GDL) “next door”. These stories do hit the local papers, and no doubt the U.S. and Canadian media as well, like the recent story of 26 bodies discovered in GDL on a famous landmark public location.

Crime here in Lake Chapala as elsewhere in the world is under-reported. Growing up in Texas, I saw what became almost a contest between media outlets on who could provide the most gruesome body shots at murder scenes, especially during the years that Houston was the #1 murder capital in the nation (is it still? Or does the honor now go to New Orleans? Washington, D.C.?) Here in Lake Chapala it is understandable that crime is under-reported when victims are too frightened to go to the police, or have no faith that the police can/will do anything, or that it’s too much trouble, takes too long. And even, that it’s necessary to keep crime reports under wraps lest it ruin property values and hurt chances for resale, or keep new investors away.

I’ve heard all of these observations about crime in Mexico since I moved here in June 2011. I also hear the general buzz about crime being on the increase, about how there’s crime everywhere in the world, that the US crime rate is much higher than Mexico’s. [examples]. Hearsay? Truth? Where’s the data?

I think we all live here with a certain amount of bravura sprinkled with denial. Well, sad to say, it hit the fan last week. Here’s my personal take on it:

Tuesday November 29:

I was running about a half-hour late for a meeting at LCS. On the nearest corner were several Policia and reporters taking notes. What I learned later was that a 69-year-old man had been murdered in his open carport as he and his wife were loading groceries from their car on the street. Witnesses later reported that an assailant had tried to remove the man’s wallet from his back pocket, and when he turned around defensively, he took a direct shot to his chest, dying nearly instantly. The assailant fled from the scene and attempted to take a car from a woman driving in the vicinity, but didn’t succeed. If I hadn’t been running late, that could have been my car he attempted to steal.

This was too close for comfort. Ajijic is not Juarez. I obsessed about crime all day and sleepless night.

Wednesday November 30:

Then I tried to mobilize my anxiety toward something useful:

1. First of all, I wondered how much do we really know about crime here? I know there are a lot of rumors and hearsay that I hear from both gringos and Mexicans.

2. How good a source of data is the local crime report website http://lakesidecrime.com/ajijic/ajijic_1129_2011.php ? They depend upon people reporting directly to them, whether victims or friends/neighbors thereof. The website had shut down recently due to lack of submissions, but are currently open on a 90-day trial basis. [update May 2012: this site has now been discontinued]

There are often retractions and/or corrections to the reports, but most reports are not updated, so they are in a sort of “roach motel” (data goes in, but cannot come out).

By the website’s own estimate, probably only 10% of crimes are reported to them in the first place (people don’t know about the site, are afraid to report, or it’s too inconvenient). Similarly people don’t report crimes to the Policia – frustrated that “the police never do anything” and it’s too much trouble and time-consuming. And apparently, the police don’t make their own crime stats available to the public.

3. Nevertheless, just to get an idea, I read through the crime website’s reports from January 2010 to the present; it seems that the crimes reported are in clusters, mostly in the fracciomientos (fraccs or gated communities). No surprise – that’s where the money is. Most of the crimes are robberies – few assaults not related to a robbery, no rapes reported. Almost all reports were from non-Mexicans. Almost none of the crimes in Lake Chapala are narco cartel-related, but are crimes by poor and/or “lazy” people needing money to live. “Lazy” is the word used by my Mexican friends: they are disgusted by (especially young) people who refuse to work even though they can, when there’s more opportunity here because of the expat population than in other communities.

My primitive analysis of these albeit incomplete statistics gave me some reassurance, especially since my neighborhood of Riberas del Pilar has had very little crime reported except for the areas that border the fracc next door, or close to the lake where squatters live in poverty 9albeit with the best lake view in town). Mine is a mixed neighborhood of foreigners and Mexicans, of somewhat high- , medium-, and lower-end homes, both rented and owned, families, couples and singles (mostly women).

Thursday December 1:

The home invasion / attempted robbery / murder really put Lakeside on edge. Following other recent crimes, people reached their limit of tolerance, and crossed a tipping point. One of the local realtors, Linda Fossi, and others mobilized to confront the officials in Chapala (seat of government for Lake Chapala) and requested that the community join them in a show of force. I unfortunately didn’t get the email until too late, but about an estimated 200-400 people showed up at “city hall” to let them know our concerns for safety. They began to get the ear of the officials.

Next, the organizers  asked  the community to email one proposed solution each to be presented to the officials. They received over 800 emails. Next, organizers asked for an even larger show of force to attend a meeting with officials at a local hotel on Wednesday.

Wednesday December 7:

It is estimated that 1500-2000 people attended. The “officials” included …. It is said that the Lakeside community has never mobilized in this way, and it has a real impact. The organizers summarized our proposed solutions down to six, and presented them. The officials responded very positively, shared our concerns, and pledged to meet with the organizers on Friday December 9 to begin to work on implementing the solutions. Amazingly, this has all been pulled together within 10 days of the tragic murder. This is NOT on “Mexico time”.

The process has not been perfect, but I’m stunned – and proud of – how rapidly the community could be rallied and organized, and at the strength of community participation. At the very least, “fighting back” has diminished my anxiety and feelings of powerlessness; our local officials have heard us and seem willing to make changes. At most, we might actually make some changes in how law enforcement functions in this community to apprehend perpetrators, reduce crime, and make us all safer.

We all await the results and hopefully we’ll get progress reports on a regular basis, from both organizers and the local media. Already some positive news has happened ( see the links below for more detail).

Stay tuned…

 

 

 

fire!

Yesterday, we had an unusual windstorm (but no rain) during the night that has kept up all day today, and the usually warm temps have dropped 10-15 degrees to no more than 60′s in the daytime, 40′s at night. Feels like Maine Fall! (early Fall). The windstorm had pulled down several dead palm tree branches, about 12 feet long, dry as toast, and much heavier than I expected. Now I see why my gardener was averse to sawing the dead branches off – let the wind do it. I can see how these substantial palm branches are excellent  for building houses. (Bonus: I got 2 “leafless” branches in a beautiful shape that will make interesting sculptures.)

Maybe because I’m an Aries, fire has always been important to me, and a source of contemplative delight. My years in Maine afforded me my most contact with building fires, and various methods of using a fire: campfires, not so efficient wood stoves, efficient wood stoves, Russian or Finnish fireplaces (thanks to my ex who builds fabulous such fireplaces and stonework), traditional fireplaces, and finally, my very own DIA stone firepit situated close to the lake at my last (beloved) house in Maine. My hammock was also close by, and it was wonderful to engage with the fire and visitors into the night. One night, a new neighbor across the lake gave us quite a professional fireworks show, in celebration of a birthday. One never knows…

Living here in Lake Chapala, I have been well aware of fires burning in the distance, on the mountain and in the country, even in the relatively hot month of May when I first came to check the place out. I’m sure many people still cook and heat with fire, and farmers always have trash wood to burn. The houses here don’t usually have a source of heat. Many houses have fireplaces, and many folks buy electric heaters for cool weather. My house has a faux fireplace in the living room with an electric receptacle inside for a heater to be plugged in. So far, the house doesn’t cool down enough to need a heater, but that may change.

Right before the recent windstorm, I anticipated wanting a fire for warmth (that old Fall ritual seems to have become part of my DNA), and also a means of grilling over charcoal. A few days ago, I went to the vivero (garden shop) I frequent and bought a ceramic chiminea, but not the kind with a little built-in chimney. This one lets me build a fire with logs on the bottom, or put in a grate to hold charcoal, and a 2nd grate above that to hold food for grilling. All told, the chiminea, custom-made (and re-made grates that didn’t fit the first time), and a few sticks of mesquite cost about $50.00 USD, delivered.

Tonight I tried out my little fireplace, starting the fire with palm leaves and branches, and burning a couple of mesquite logs that lasted for a few hours. Heaven!

So my circle is complete: wind, wood, fire. I had a cozy time fondly remembering my fires in Maine, sipping a very Mexican cup of that Chocolat drink (cocoa, cinnamon, and chipotle chili), a good connection.

spa time!

Villa Bordeaux

My friend Diana had two visitors from British Columbia; unfortunately, Diana was sick with a bad cold during their visit, and asked me to help attend to them. What a delight that turned out to be! We ended up spending 2 days (their 3rd and 4th, it was so good) at Villa Bordeaux Spa Termal Cosala / Hotel, one of the local spas & hotel in San Juan Cosala, about a 20 minute drive west of Ajijic.

This unique setting on Lake Chapala is built on natural hot springs. One of the waitstaff told us that if it weren’t for the spa pools, the land could explode with thermal “geysers”. We enjoyed the infinity warm water pool, a hot tub and wonderful poolside meals and drinks; there was also tequila tasting and education about the different types of tequila. This area was restricted to 60 adults only, and since it was during the Revolution holidays, we picked the best spot, not at all crowded. The hot water is quite healing: our incipient (or worse) arthritic aches and pains simply disappeared, and the salts in the water (no chlorine) made our skin extra soft.  The price? (are you sitting down?): about $22.00 USD for tickets for the whole day, plus meals and drinks. There are other areas of the same spa for families with children, and several hot tubs that offer immersion in herbs, flowers, and even chocolate! But they were noisy and crowded. The thermal infinity pool was enough for us, thanks, and totally delightful.  If/when any of my family & friends come visit, (ahem) it’s definitely worth a trip to the spa!

Monte Coxala

Across the road and up the mountain from this spa is a unique place: Monte Coxala Spa/Hotel and its Restaurante Chac-Lan. Their website offers gorgeous photos. The story here is that the Mexican owner, a retired physician, loves pre-Columbian art and has dedicated the grounds as a sculpture garden of replicas of such art. He has worked with a local sculptor who for over 20 years has created replicas of notable Tolmec, Aztec, and Mayan sculpture and architecture.

We asked if we could stroll the grounds, but alas, they’re open only to hotel guests, to protect their privacy. However, the restaurant is open to the public (the round palapa (thatched roof) covered structure in my photos below.

november celebrations

November may be the most celebratory month of the year here, but I’ll wait for Christmas to confirm this.

Art Festival

Besides the Day of the Dead festivities, the town of Chapala has hosted Feria Maestros del Arte for the last 10 years and is going strong, this year on November 18-20. Artisans and performers from all over Mexico converge in a giant outdoor arts festival. There is a video from the 2009 Feria Maestros del Arte with many of the same artisans and crafts that appeared in 2011.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I also recommend that you look at photos from fellow Mainer Bill Frayer* to get an idea of the art (return here with your back button).

Feria Music Performance and Rebozo (shawl) demonstration

Mariachi music is an acquired taste and I have acquired it! Guadalajara has an all-woman Mariachi band, which have become my favorite group. Their singing is emotional, humorous, flirty, heartfelt, and serious bluesy. They are a talented group of individuals and performed at the Feria this year.

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There was also a rebozo (shawl) fashion show and demo of the myriad ways these lovely shawls can be tied and used for different purposes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Viva la Revolution!

The last 9 days of November in Mexico offer many parades and fireworks commemorating: La Revolución Mexicana - 1910′s that is. Mexico’s revolution in 1810,  celebrated on the 16th of September, was the Mexican War of Independence from Spain, and lasted from 1810 to 1821.

La Revolución also required 10 years, to ouster Porfirio Diaz, create the Constitution, and establish a viable central government.  In the parades celebrating the  Revolution, children dress like the people did back in the day, complete with painted-on moustasches, little wooden rifles and faux bandoliers, and pretend fine ladies’ gowns.

I can’t help but connect, since my mother was born in 1906, and my family left for the USA (Texas) at about the time of the Revolution, just in time for her to start kindergarten, not speaking a word of English. Ajijic’s patron saint (of fishermen) St. Andre is remembered and honored: the church in Ajijic Plaza is dedicated to him, and there were extensive celebrations, bombas, and parades in his honor.

Thanksgiving

The American (and Canadian??) Thanksgiving used to be difficult to put together in Lake Chapala, since turkey and many of the trimmings weren’t easily available here. Thankfully, that has changed, and many restaurants offer a traditional TG dinner. My friend Valerie invited me to join her at La Nueva Posada (an old colonial style hotel) for a delicious meal that was very easy to overeat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were joined by an elegant lady, probably in her 80s, bright as a penny, who was leaving her temporary assisted living digs for an independent apartment this week, and who had interesting stories to tell of her 17 years in Lake Chapala. One of the staff from the assisted living facility came to check on her and arrange her pick-up time. Our dinner companion had glowing reports about the care there, and Mexico is committing to building more affordable assisted living and extended care facilities, at a fraction of the cost in the U.S.

After dinner we visited another 80-year-old friend of Valerie’s, and again, a very smart and with-it lady, recently widowed. There are many role models of aging women here, including a 90-something woman (who can’t weigh more than about 90 pounds), that I have seen on LCS bus trips, totally independent. I wish we could see more such positive role models in American media. As one of the local fitness guru’s logo says, aging is not for sissies.

*News from Bill and Pixie

Speaking of, Mainers Bill and Pixie have decided to become snowbirds, living most of the year in Maine (see more details in the same link). Although I haven’t seen that much of them, I know I will miss them. Hey, I just got here! Luckily, Bill has published several volumes of poetry and there’s a reading coming up soon. And Pixie has invited me to the Solstice celebration on the mountain overlooking Ajijic (I attended the Equinox celebration at the same location in September). Hopefully, I can see them in Maine too, when I’m there.

day of the dead

This year, Mexico celebrated their Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) on November 2, a day which traditionally honors the dead, All Saints Day, and these days, Halloween imported from foreigners. Celebrations began on 10/31 with bombas (fireworks) in the plazas, and a parade of each barrio and school in the native costumes of Aztecs, Mayans, and other Indios, with an occasional living pieta (Mary holding the body of Jesus brought down from the cross) float here and there. (So there’s a bit of mixed metaphors, makes it richer!)

A  friend and I visited the Ajijic Panteon (cemetery) where families gathered at gravesides in the traditional manner to honor their dead. The graves are decorated with flowers, especially marigolds which made them look like shrines in India, along with food items, specific reminders of their departed loved one such as their favorite sport or drink, and tiny terra cotta skeletons and other momento mori (“Remember you too must die”). Some young men were drinking their tequila or beer at graveside, some of the women were conducting prayer recitations with their families, all subdued and quiet, but not sad.

Perhaps they get through their grief at the time of death, knowing that they will come back to it every year, they process their grief a little bit at a time over the year, surrounded by family and community support. It was so heartbreaking to see photos of children and youths who had died prematurely, some this very year. But it was heartwarming to see the attention to detail in the way the people honor their dead. Each decorated grave was an art exhibit. There were moments when I thought I felt spirits (Rosie, are you reading this?), and I decided they were glad we were there.

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Another celebration in Chapala was on a street where people commemorated whomever they wish, not just their own personal departeds, with elaborate altars, parades, pan de los muertos, bread of the dead – buns with a dough cross on top (gives new meaning to hot cross buns). Another treat was a free hot drink served by a woman at her doorstep, which was made with coffee, cocoa, cinnamon, sugar, and a pinch of one of the Maya’s gifts, chipotle chili (like in the movie Chocolat, but it didn’t seem to have the same effect on me as in the movie, dammit). Among the altars were one for Bob Marley, another one for PRI one of the Mexican political parties (I guess someone WISHED they were dead), and perennial favorite, Frieda Kahlo. The altars presented food, drink, clothing, momentos of their interests and activities when alive; and curiously, often included a wash basin with soap and towel.

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In the course of walking the crowded street, suddenly there was a somber parade of high school students in “dead” makeup, some on horseback. They took their procession very seriously, and you could feel the power they exuded as guides through the underworld. These were not decked out as zombies American-style, nor the amusing little skeletons found everywhere here, but a much more dignified, enactment of momento mori.

 

(May look better in full-screen mode…)

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For the last celebration, little neighborhood goblins dressed in U.S.-style Halloween costumes and came to my door declaring “Queremos Halloween!” (“We want Halloween!”). I felt terrible that I did not have candy for them, not thinking they did American-style Halloween. But I had a few pesos to hand out and hope that was sufficient. I’ll know better next year. Alas, no “fotos” of the kids.

lake cruise

Lake Chapala Pelicans

I recently bought a ticket for a cruise on Lake Chapala on the new party boat, the Batur. I had left another meeting late, and raced from Ajijic to Chapala hoping I’d make the boat in time. Just as I got there and parked, I could see the stern of the boat several meters from shore and I thought, oh no, missed it. As I approached the gangplank anyway, it turned out that the boat hadn’t launched yet, and in fact wouldn’t launch for another 15-30 min., making the excursion 1/2 hour late. Yep, we’re on Mexico time. A small ferry holding about 20 passengers is pulled by a rope by a man on the boat, bringing passengers from the shore to the boat, similar to a clothesline on a pulley; and the reverse when landing at the end of the cruise. I had seen a similar ferry in my early days in Maine, and I always enjoy experiencing low tech solutions  (as well as my Apple tech toys).

Batur Boat Cruise slideshow:

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The Batur is a dedicated party boat, with 2 bars, a dance floor, dining and cocktail tables, a grilling center for, in this instance, burgers and dogs, and a few fish options. In this climate, there’s no need to close it in with glass, so it’s an open boat all around. It’s a brand new boat, white on white, very clean and seemed to function well. Our cruise was supposed to be about 3 hours long, heading east from Chapala and back. Some tours go to Ajijic, some stop off at Scorpion Island or Mescala Island for a brief tour of the fort and a bit of history (see below). I think it’s not until you are on the lake and far enough away from shore that you can actually conceptualize just how big Lake Chapala really is: 50 miles long, 20 miles wide, more like an inland sea.

Our cruise had a DJ spinning old songs from when we were young, from the 1950′s, 1960′s, 1970′s and some Latina music. And as this trip was sponsored by the LCS Mix and Match Singles Club, the passengers were mostly single (some sneaky couples wiggled their way in), mostly women, and people were soon drinking and dancing.

Understandably, the vastly outnumbered men were the focus of attention of many of the women (no, I wasn’t one of them). Seems that all the guys have to do here is stand there, keep their mouths shut, and look pretty!  (Oh, unFAIR!) I did find several women interesting to talk to. The women here tend to have full and varied backgrounds, and they certainly are risk-takers: hey, they’re here! Many came down here alone, or were unexpectedly separated, widowed or divorced after they arrived. They seem to be thriving.

I had noticed one of the cute young waiters wiggling his hips as he served the passengers, and I wondered if he was anxious to dance. And he was. At the end of the cruise, well after the 3-hr. deadline, the waiters changed out of uniform, donned crazy wigs, and hit the dance floor. They were very gracious asking the elder ladies to dance. So sweet and charming: I believe they could get jobs as social directors on any cruise liner.

Batur Boat Boogie:

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History and Culture

Two islands are found in Lake Chapala. One of these, Scorpion Island, or Isla Alacranes, is a sacred site for indigenous Mexicans. Isla Alacranes is named for its shape, like a scorpion, not because it has an abundance of them. According to one website, it has several restaurants that serve scrumptious local dishes.

The other, Mezcala Island, or Isla Presidio, is a national monument and the site of a glorious episode in Mexican history. In the early 1800′s, from their stronghold on the island, a very determined band of 1000 Mexican insurgents – grossly outnumbered and with little or no arms and supplies — held off the powerful Spanish army and navy for four years. Eventually defeated by typhoid and dysentery rather than force of arms, the freedom fighters’ brave resistance is said to have inspired Mexico’s independence in 1821, ending 300 years of colonial rule.

Adapted from: http://www.chapaladirectory.com/english2011/chapala.php

the Thriller dance

I didn't even need makeup :o )

Last night, we did it! We danced the Michael Jackson “Thriller” dance on the Chapala Malecon. This was a global phenomenon: at the same hour across the world, other zombies performed the Thriller dance in their location for their charities and causes. Thank you, MJ, for your fabulous choreography.

talented fearless leader Elliott

Local realtor Elliott Joachim, with a background in ballroom dance, does a fabulous job organizing and guiding us through learning the Michael Jackson “Thriller” dance. She’s a lot of fun and knows how to run a group that keeps it fun and non-competitive.

Why? you may ask…for fun, of course! And it was a blast. Practice for 2 wks and/or learn the official MJ moves online. About 30 women and a coupla guys, young, old, Americans, Canadians, Latin Americans, we are just people who love to dance, create make up and costumes for Halloween like 4-yr-olds.

 

this adorable little zombie helped to collect the donations for Cruz Roja

This is also a benefit to raise money to help our local Red Cross (Cruz Roja) who provides EMS and ambulances locally. They are in dire financial straights, and the Lake Chapala community has been doing all kinds of things to collect donations for them to keep it all going. Including scaring the money right out of the audience’s pockets!

Here are a few other zombies before the dance… and be sure and watch the video! Go to the slideshows and video page in this blog.

lunch in the cloud

There is such good food in Lake Chapala: regional Mexican, of course, (even Tex-Mex), seafood (fresh daily from the Pacific), ranchero-style and other steak, Texas bar-b-que, Chinese, Thai, Japanese, Italian, pasta and pizza, rotisserie chicken, nouveau cuisine (whatever that is, these days), the weekly organic market that is out of this world, along with the weekly traditional Tianguis (outdoor markets) in each village, and there are new cafe’s/restaurants opening (and closing) all the time.

Having lunch weekly at the new internet cafe on my street – The Oasis Cloud – has become a real treat;
delicious sandwiches, dessert and coffee, including lattes and espresso, and the owners and other guests to chat with in the beautiful garden. Duane is a software developer;  he and Mary Ann met while working as independent missionaries in Indonesia, and have lived all over the world. They have cleverly converted part of their home into a cafe and meeting place, indoors and out.

Krypto loves it there; he’s appointed himself greeter of customers, but settles right down for a nap in the shade as he waits for a treat from my lunch. And to think it’s all just a few blocks down my street where Krypto and I walk nearly every day.

You never know what you’ll find in Mexico.

 

The Oasis Cloud garden is a wonder and I think it deserves its own post of photos here.

how busy should we be?

Tropical Storm Irwin in Eastern Pacific

We’ve had rain for about a week, most unusual; hurricane Jova plus 2 tropical storms in the east Pacific churned it up, and Jova crossed land into our state of Jalisco around Puerta Vallarta. In Lake Chapala, we didn’t have high winds or severe rain, only minor flooding here and there, as in the usual rainy season, where nearly all cobblestone streets and sidewalks morph into streams and rivulets to be forded. People have been saying we had an abbreviated rainy season this year, so this light steady rain, all day and all night, was actually welcome. The temperatures dropped down to 50′s and 60′s. It made me want to hunker down and luxuriate in the weather, and reminded me of wrapping up in a comforter with a good book on a snowed-in day in Maine. Without the loss of power. There is still tropical storm Irwin that just made landfall, but the sun came out here this morning and it’s as welcome as the rain was.

Hunkering down in the rain this week was a good reminder of how busy I’ve been lately, good busy, doing fun things, getting out, enjoying doing things with people and new friends. But I’m recognizing how much I don’t want to be busy. I want to make room for creativity, for tranquility, for gardening, for watching the humming birds, for the joy of reading (again), for writing, and art. I’m seeing an optimum pattern emerging: do no more than 3 errands/tasks per day, not more than 3 times per week. Otherwise, my energy is sapped.

What’s there to do around here?

For me, Spanish class (twice a week), grocery shopping (more fun in the Tanguis or Organic Market, but there’s always WalMart), meals out, shopping for second-hand clothes (I’m still shrinking), occasional LCS bus trips to other famous towns to view the work of artisans, or the GDL Zoo, or some day to the beach (Puerto Vallarta, Manzanilla, Colima, or other coastal towns), or to Tequila (town of, blue agave fields, tour of Tequila processing methods plus take-home samples), or to Guadalajara and Mexico City for big-city culture and shopping fixes.

In Lakeside, there’s live theatre x 2: Lakeside Little Theatre, and Naked Stage, other live musical and dance performances, movie theaters x 2 (for around $2 USD) showing current releases in English with Spanish subtitles (or visa versa), meetings, parties, fiestas. I hope to do Kayaking (year-round) on the lake, maybe an art group, a garden club, and Zumba for exercise (unbelievable workout to very loud Mexican techno). There’s a Mac user group, iPhone/iPod/(iPad?) group, free weekly movies at LCS, mostly foreign, independent, and art house films, selected and hosted by a very knowledgeable and good-humored film aficionado, with discussion before and afterwards.

Then there’s volunteering to “payback” this wonderful community, help the Mexicanos, especially the poor children. I have yet to volunteer for something, but luckily, many of the local second-hand shops and bus trips I do give a cut of the fees to local charities.

I will always need my alone-time for meditation/centering, creative work, gardening, reading, watching movies, perusing the net, playing with electronics, and oh yeah, playing with Krypto. I also hope to develop close friendships here, and keep up with those of my prior life. I hope to save enough dough to be able to travel, both within Mexico and wherever else I can afford. Put all of this together, it’s a pretty full slate. And this doesn’t even scratch the surface.

I think of how often it is reported that retirees are bored to death (literally?), not knowing how to fill their day, eventually returning to work, (if they can find it), for structure and social connection. I don’t believe it’s a problem here, but I could be wrong. I hear people saying they can hardly get themselves out of the house to do something (like this week for me with the rain), and I hear people saying they are so overbooked they have no time for themselves. I seek the middle path.

In the 3 months I have been here, I’ve had 4 people wanting me to develop a website or blog, but for now (probably forever), I’m saying ‘no’. I really don’t feel like working! Even work I always enjoyed. (This from a formerly long-term unemployed premature retiree avidly seeking work every week). In Mexico, my financial status is “good enough” and I’m even saving more than I was before I left the states, spending less here all the time, so I don’t really need to try to earn more money. The panic is gone, along with the pressure; I re-calculate what I’m spending frequently, to make sure I’m not hoodwinking myself, but my bottom line is: I’m living a very good life that costs around $20K per year (including saving 20%), and it could cost even less should the need arise.

My life is getting balanced: I have what I want, I want what I have. The last thing I want is to get on the treadmill trap of work. And maybe activities and socializing is another treadmill to avoid, or at least to moderate.

I think life here is so fulfilling – beautiful climate, gorgeous environment, good healthy food, connection with interesting friendly people, and creativity everywhere – that it’s possible to leave behind the shoulds and musts and wants that kept us on our treadmills as we sought to fill an empty life.

The most frequent word I hear about living here is: “magical”. And we’re not kidding!

16th of september

The 16th of September is Mexico’s 4th of July, celebrating Mexico’s hard-won independence from Spain in 1810. For an excellent account of the history – and contemporary celebrations – of this important holiday, please read here (note: if you have to subscribe to that blog to view the article, it’s well worth your money, assuming you want to learn a lot about Lake Chapala.) But here’s a quote:

In the early hours of September 16, 1810, Padre Miguel Hidalgo, the parish priest of Dolores, Guanajuato, summoned the townspeople to the church and spoke passionately, urging the farmers to take up arms against Spain. The midnight rally 201 years ago marked the beginning of Mexico’s 10-year struggle for independence from Spain.

In essence, Mexico commemorates this event with the recitation of Hidalgo’s speech (called the grito, or cry for freedom), the night before around 11pm on the 15th of September, in every plaza in Mexico, led by officials from the most local all the way up to El Presidente de Mexico. But the decorations and parties actually begin around September 1, and in Lakeside, since there are several villages and not enough room for everybody in Ajijic for one big celebration, the Mexicanos are happy to repeat the celebrations AFTER September 16 in each of the other villages. Any excuse for a party, and nobody parties like Mexicans!

from the Club balcony, Ajijic Plaza

(Left:) Come to the Ajijic plaza September 11 about 6 p.m. for an old traditional event — the promenade of the rebozos (shawls). Girls, young women and grandmas proudly wear this iconic garment in a variety of ways.
(Right:) The charros (horsemen) don their finest trajes (traditional suits) for the September parades. (from http://www.mexico-insights.com)

One of the unique expressions of Mexican joy and fun around this time, is the launching of globos: small homemade hot air balloons that mostly catch on fire and crash to the ground, but if they actually fly, can go all the way up the mountain.


Finale

Noche Mexicana

(Left) Not to be undone, expats and Mexican amigos put on a fabuloso performance of their own: THE REALLY BIG LIP SYNC SHEW hosted by Ed Sullivan himself (or maybe it was a look-alike?). They cavorted and minced and lip-synced to some favorite and not so favorite oldies. There’s a lotta talent in this town! See the slideshow (although the images are fuzzy, you’ll get the idea).

 

 

(Right) And we also had a delightful La Noche Mexicana (Mexican Night) celebration, with great food, music, singing and dancing, including dance performances by a young Ballet Folklorico troupe from San Juan Cosala, west of Ajijic.

people snapshots

My maid Estella and her husband Chuy (and son)

Estella is a young mother of two of school age children, a boy and a girl. She does an awesome job cleaning my house every week, and converses with me in Spanish. Although she speaks some English, she refuses to with me, to help me advance in my Spanish lessons (she’s right). We enjoy a conversation before she gets down to sweeping (inside and out), mopping, cleaning the bathrooms, changing the beds, cleaning the kitchen. She’s very sweet and her face reminds me of the sun, smiling brightly.

Her husband Chuy is employed by my rental agency and has been a big help with resolving minor issues with the house. He has 2 brothers who live in Washington, D.C. and Chuy lived there with them for a time, working and learning English. He is a favorite among our rental agency’s workers, and is often requested by the single women who are mistrusting of having un hombre in their homes. He is so reliable, speaks English nearly fluently, and is generally an all-around good guy. They recently worked an extra 4 hours to scrub my fountain of a hardened layer of scale plus some protective coating that had to be chiseled out, making the fountain good as new.

Our “staff” down here (maid, handymen, gardener) serve as concierges getting us good value for services we need from local businesses without getting gouged with gringo prices. I like to send business their way, rather than randomly find somebody out of a phone book. And if they and their friends can make out a little better, it’s a virtuous circle.

Talking to strangers

Simply Thai Restaurant

I recently met a couple in a restaurant who live in Lake Chapala in winter, Hawaii in summer, but also spend 1-2 months each in Rome, Paris, or wherever in the course of the year. Tough life! It seems they can do this by renting their 2 home bases year-round, not pouring money into home ownership, and staying in affordable hostels in Europe when there.

Ives, on the lake

Usually, when I go to a restaurant alone, I end up chatting with people at the next table. Especially when Krypto is with me, he’s a conversation starter par excellence. Since nearly all restaurants here have outdoor seating and allow dogs, K can usually come with me, and behaves very well, knowing he’ll get treats from my meal at the end. But even when he’s not with me, people are so friendly and seek to engage. It reminds me of being in college where you always have something to talk about: what’s your major, which dorm do you live in, what’s your sign (in my day, anyway). It’s like that here, but about: are you visiting or living here, full- or part-time, where do you live, renting or owning, where are you from, how long have you been here. And then usually, all agree about how wonderful it is here, and share our JOY at our good fortune in being here.

El Jardin, with peacocks

There are some people, of course, who take every opportunity to complain: about how awful 1) Mexico 2) Mexicans 3) their maid/gardener 4) the food 5) the prices 6) the street vendors, 7) the cost of healthcare… n) nearly anything/everything is here. I overhear conversations over an entire meal that are strictly about somatic complaints, their latest diagnosis, what a ripoff healthcare is here (e.g., $15.00 USD doctor office visits??), how their overfilled medicine cabinets are just not helping.

And then there are the Fear Mongers (FMs) who are never very far way from impending violence. It’s true, we recently had a shooting in Chapala – the police shot 3, killed 2 drug-related bad guys (I felt more secure knowing that the police won that round). The FMs were all atwitter warning anyone who would listen to stay out of Ajijic and Chapala lest they be shot. Now, we’re talking about elders who managed to survive the violence in the U.S. all their lives up til now. But maybe that’s how they did it, by hiding under their beds.

Worse are the insidious racists oblivious to their racism. Saying how they would not swim the public pools here (“I don’t know how often they clean them”), would not eat from street vendors (“they’re so dirty, you would get sick”), how some mixed neighborhoods (gringo and Mexican) are TOO mixed (“too many Mexicans”). And even some Mexicans are in this category, who don’t allow their maids/gardeners to use their bathrooms (hence the additional outdoor bathrooms built in many homes, including my rental or the Guadalajarans who treat the uneducated, poor Mexicans like slaves or worse. I hope things will change some day, but meanwhile I cringe at some of these conversations. When I’m in a position to challenge them, gently, it only backfires: I become one of THEM. I grew up with this in Texas, it’s very familiar territory. Some day, if I get my nationality declaration, it would be very amusing to let them know “You know, I’m a Mexican too.”

My neighborhood

A mother and daughter from the states live in my neighborhood, daughter helps mom who has health problems. Both were mental health field professionals prior to moving here, are politically liberal and active in the Democratic party. They are kind enough to rescue and/or feed the stray cats and dogs in the neighborhood. They were also kind enough to take me to Costco by a different route that avoids driving through GDL. (There are a zillion Costco’s in the GDL area.) Yes, I actually bought stuff there, including 36 rolls of t.p.! It seems that having a survivalist-type of stocked pantry affords a degree of comfort; for me, it means shopping less frequently, so I’ll probably go again.

Recent conversations about the economy: the banks around here are offering 5-6% on savings accounts with a minimum deposit of 10K USD. There are many small investment firms here and gringos seem to be moving their money to Mexico (although one can do all their banking online via U.S. banks). There seems to be new laws affecting capital gains taxes if one is selling property here.

We now have an Internet cafe in the neighborhood!  (photos later). A nice couple have converted their front room and patio into cafe space with umbrella tables, and offer sandwiches, coffee, desserts. Nice place to chat with them and with other neighbors. It’s a wonderful idea, and I will do my best to support them; it’s delightful to stop in there on my walks with Krypto, who is dying to get into their kitchen, but manages to behave. They have travelled throughout Indonesia and southeast Asia as independent Christian missionaries (unaffiliated with a particular church). He’s a techie, they both are into healthy food and complementary medicine, quite liberal in their politics, and most pleasant to talk with, so although they offer WiFi, so far I’d rather talk than read or write on my iPad.

Easy

Another neighbor from the states is in recovery and treatment here for a narcotics addiction. He has lived here several years in the home he inherited from his mother, who made the move several years ago, as did an uncle. One of his 2 dogs recently had to be put down following an eye infection that travelled to the brain. (What’s with the eye thing here?). I will always have an interest in addiction, having worked in that field, but I know to keep my distance – and boundaries. But he’s pleasant to talk to on a how-ya-doing basis. His dog Easy and Krypto get along.

My Mexican techie neighbor next door who had been very friendly when I first moved in, became very hostile about Krypto after we had tried to get K and his dog Lex to become friends. Krypto had uncharacteristically barked and snarled at him (the man, not the dog). So I’ve kept my distance from him. He recently got married to a very sweet young woman, and she and I have had some friendly chats. Lately, things are a bit friendlier, all around. Whatever it was that Krypto was picking up from him seems to have abated. But K’s still not interested in being friends with Lex at all, even though he’s made friends with lots of other dogs in the ‘hood now. As do most dog owners, I trust what doggies tell me about humans.

An attractive older Mexican man walks his unusual dog: a “Xolo”, a small charcoal-gray hairless dog, but for a few long strands on his head, like a Chinese crested. This dog is of an ancient breed known to the Aztecs called the Xoloitzcuintle (pronounced “show-low-its-queen-tli”). The man always looked a bit stunned at K’s doggles, and finally asked about them. I was able to explain in Spanish, I’m happy to report, and now he chuckles when he sees K with his goggles on.

Another very sweet Mexican man walks his Bichon-type dogster, Pele, and lives with an American woman nearby. He lived in Germany many years, and she’s an artist, grows an organic garden, and in the woman’s group I joined for an Equinox celebration recently; they are building a new house at the other end of the neighborhood. He is always very concerned about the stray street dogs, having rescued more than one himself. He told me one time that he and his partner were very glad to have met me – isn’t that nice? They’ll be an interesting couple to get to know.

Bougainvillea everywhere

My neighbors across the street I don’t know very well: she’s a very attractive Filipina with beautiful white hair and dark skin, he’s a Brit, and they have 3 ferocious watchdogs, all Chihuahuas. Krypto would love to play with them, but they’re just not into him.

I met an elegant, very fit older Mexican woman outside her beautiful house in the neighborhood. She’s from Mexico City, fluent in English, retired to Lake Chapala. Her adult children don’t visit much any more, and she has a big house. She said she’s interested in finding a roommate, and if/when I’m ready to move, we should talk. Needless to say, I’m not ready yet.

And of course, there are the celebrations that lead up to, during and after the 16th of September, Mexican Independence Day. Mexicans really know how to party! …stay tuned!

The lakeshore in the neighborhood

update: climate

Still “Maine summer” beautiful, still have rain at night only it skips a night here and there. Sometimes I have to wear a hoodie and jeans for the chilly morning walk, but it’s toasty again in the afternoon. As we head into fall, we’ll get less rain until it stops completely from about October until June. And it will gradually get cooler, not only in the mornings but the rest of the day too. We’ve had many conversations recently about whether the rainy season is past; we’re seeing flowers that usually don’t bloom until later October. When we go 2-3 days without rain, the cobblestones are dusty dry. After it rained last night, it was back to normal and quite a relief.

One more month until the snowbirds arrive for the winter. I’m trying not to be negative, but I’ve heard so many complaints from the year-rounders about how crowded it gets with traffic and too many ugly-American types. I’ll try to stay open.